It’s our anniversary: two weeks since we took possession of the caravan. So far no more hitches, small or otherwise. The trip to our second stop was mercifully uneventful, and this week we’ve been staying near Lennox Head in northern New South Wales.

Lennox Head is known as one of Australia’s top 10 surf beaches: it’s kilometres long with soft, white squeaky sand and is, quite simply, stunning. The swimming is great with the water still warm at about 25 C, and we enjoy watching the surfers, skilled and unskilled, in their never-ending search for the perfect wave. I left the water when I saw them putting out what I thought were shark drum lines (see below), but which were, in fact, only buoys for a competition later in the day.

The baited drum lines were already in the water.

As with all Australian beaches, beauty comes with warnings.

We’ve spent the week dodging rain showers as there have been downpours on and off every day. In between we manage some coastal walks along the headlands, some swims, and a couple of forays into Ballina to buy supplies, go to dinner for our birthdays, and buy new bikes. I’m sure it will come as some surprise to you to learn Scott was keen to go to the Maritime Museum.

This turns out to be fascinating in one respect. We had never heard of Las Balsas and I suspect you haven’t either. Forget the Kon-Tiki, this is a much greater feat. In 1973, twelve guys and three cats set off on three balsa wood rafts (4 guys and one cat on each) to sail from Guayaquil, Ecuador to Mooloolaba in Queensland. The point was to prove that early navigators understood the winds and current of the Pacific and could have sailed to the Pacific Islands. Light winds towards the end of the journey saw them drift south and land at Ballina, having travelled 14,000 kms in 179 days. One remaining raft is in the Maritime Museum and there’s a great film “The Pacific Challenge” documenting the trip. Fun fact – Salvador Dali donated an original artwork for the sails and it was sold to raise funds for the trip. I still want to know what happened to the cats.

This morning we leave our site near Lennox and come into Ballina as Scott gets delivery of his bike today. He had booked a drive through site – no need to unhitch and set up the caravan – as we plan only one night.

As we drive into the caravan park he has selected, I hear the theme for Deliverance playing even though there’s not a guitar or banjo in sight. While Scott gets out to find someone to ask where to park, I dial another caravan park and tell them we’ll be there in 15 minutes. Scott doesn’t argue.